Forgiving during glueing (can be stretched and wiggled a little bit). But the overlap produces a very distinctive ridge, which I think looks sort of cool. You could go overlap, or exact fit for the wrapping technique.Cutting excess material off the ends seems to produce a rough edge.Really smelly if you cut it with the laser.You'll want to finish it with some kind of leather finish or oil.Perfect candidate for overlap wrapping technique.Otherwise, cut bigger and snip the excess. So, if you are dexterous, then cut the exact length. Easy to snip excess fabric off the ends, though the burn from the laser cutter also keeps edges from fraying.Can be tricky to apply contact cement to fabric because its thin, and the glue absorbs quickly.Here are some thoughts on different materials If you are going for exact fit then you need to figure this out by trial and error, starting with 1.66" * 3.14 = 5.212". If you are going for overlap, then its going to be something like: 1.66" (outside diam of PVC) * 3.14 +. The height of the rectangle depends on if you are going for overlap or exact fit. For other materials this results in a crappy finish. For some materials it makes sense to give yourself some wiggle room, and make the rectangle longer. The length of the rectangle = 9" + 2*(width of wood). The general procedure is that you are going to cut a rectangle of material. But for some materials it might not look as good. There is no doubt that the overlap is way easier. 5" of overlap, (2) Exact fit, where the two sides of the piece of material met exactly at 360 degrees. I also used two different wrapping techniques: (1) Overlap, where the material wrapped all the way around the pipe, plus like. First step is to choose which material you want to use. I made this a separate step because there is quite a bit of possibility and potential complexity here. But you don't want it to be undersized because we want all the mirror surface area we can get. We will use material to keep it from moving later. The mirror triangle does not need to be super tight. Test the mirror width by cutting short pieces, and taping them using a short piece of PVC as show in image above.Height of mirror = 9" - 2*(thickness of acrylic) + (height of clear jar).Outside diameter = 1.7" (this will be a bit oversized, for sanding down later).Cut 2x 1.35" diameter circles out of the clear acrylic.And sand after by placing the sandpaper on a hard flat surface, and sanding the end of the PVC until its totally flat. So use a jig of some kind if doing it by hand. A hand saw is fine, but you really want to get a clean, perpendicular cut. And the expensive material - the mirror - can be tested using small pieces. Luckily, most of the materials are cheap. The dimensions I provide here might vary for you, as you're probably using a different laser cutter. You could probably get away with using the epoxy. This is tricky to use, as it bonds immediately. Glue for attaching decorative cover to PVC.Glue for attaching acrylic and wood to PVC.Mineral oil for inside the object chamber.They should be mostly translucent, otherwise you'll block all the light from entering. A bead store is a great place to find such things.So they are not scratched up when they arrive. These fit the 1.25" PVC pipe and are cheap. Plastic container for holding oil and shiny objects.When I did this project I built 37 in one go, so I was also thinking about saving time.Īside from that, everything is a home depot purchase, and can be constructed with common tools. Its totally possible to use glass for this project, but I was optimizing for cutting everything using the laser cutter. With a normal mirror the image reflects off both the reflective surface *and* the clear material (glass or acrylic) in front of the reflective coating. (See above image for comparison of normal and first surface mirror). The first surface mirror greatly improves the quality of the image inside the Kaleidoscope. The resource bottleneck for this project is (1) a laser cutter, and (2) the first surface acrylic mirror which is pricey.
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